The bottle: Woodford Reserve Kentucky Straight Malt, $34.99
The back story: Woodford Reserve is a much beloved name in the bourbon world. The Kentucky-based brand, owned by the Brown-Forman Corporation, one of the largest companies in the American spirits industry, has a history going back to the 19th Century. And its place in the bourbon pantheon has been further ensured by its status as the official bourbon of the Kentucky Derby. Little wonder the brand has seen consistent growth — with sales up 23% in its last fiscal year — and that it currently sells about 750,000 cases annually on a global basis.
So, what’s Woodford Reserve’s latest release? Surprisingly, it’s not a bourbon.
Instead, it’s a malt whiskey, in theory similar to what they make in Scotland, though Woodford Reserve master distiller Chris Morris is quick to say to call it a “new” type of spirit. Perhaps that’s because unlike single malt Scotch, which is essentially made from malted barley, the Woodford Reserve has a more varied “mash bill,” as the term goes — specifically 51% malt, 47% corn and 2% rye. Other technical factors behind its production also distinguish it from Scotch.
The bottom line, says Morris: “There is no other malt whiskey like it in the world.”
What we think about it: We agree: This is not a Scotch, though it certainly has some Scotch-like notes in its refined flavor palate (the brand says you should pick up everything from dark chocolate to ripe tropical fruit). But it actually has a lot of sweet bourbon-like notes, too, probably owing to all that corn in the mash. In short, this whiskey is a curiosity, but a fairly tasty one at that.
How to enjoy it: This is a sip to have neat, says Morris. But it can also be served on ice or used in a cocktail, he says. A brand suggestion: Substitute it for vodka in a Moscow Mule, a variation the brand calls a Woodford Reserve Malted Mule.
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